Living part time between two places (the capital city of Managua and the rural community El Jocote) creates wonderful contrast in environment and makes for interesting weekly commutes. In short, it takes about 5 hours, $2, two buses from the edge of Managua and then a half hour hike to get to El Jocote. Here's what it looks like for us...
After a day or two in the office in Managua, planning projects, doing research, and buying materials, we head out to El Jocote. There's only one bus that will get us down the long dirt road to the neighboring town of El Espino, so we have to make it out there by 1:30pm. We leave the office, on the far east side of Managua and after a quick walk to the Carretera Norte (the highway) we cross six lanes of fast moving traffic - the common blend of cars, trucks, buses, and motorcycles, just imagine every other vehicle with extra people, sitting in the back or hanging out the bus doors. Buses pass frequently, many heading north around the east side of Lake Managua. We take a bus to el departamento (like a state of a country) of Boaco. How do we distinguish the buses? Each is usually marked clearly with its destination, although in smaller lettering than statements such as "El sangre de Dios tiene Poder," and the destination is clarified by the yelling hombres hanging out the bus doors. 25 cordobas ($1) later and we've gotten in the bus, immediately grabbing hold of a bar as the bus jolts forward to keep up with traffic. All seats are full. The aisle is totally full, with two people back to back along the bus. We push through, surely knocking heads with our mochillas (backpacks) and sombreros (Joel has a really big hat, which la gente - the people - like to identify him with). We brace ourselves for the ride, as the bus jolts to a stop and picks up speed again quickly after each parada. Sweat dripping everywhere, pressed up against seats and people, I can guarantee we are both thinking of one thing: jugo de maracuya (passion fruit juice). You see, there's something amazing about a cold beverage when you're so very hot and we've found a little place in Teusptepe that has fresh fruit juices, ice cold. It's a required stop where we catch the next bus to El Espino and now we greatly look forward to it. Once we arrive in Teusptepe, we see a lot of familiar faces waiting for the bus too. Quite a few people from El Jocote travel to Boaco or Managua each week for doctors appointments and to stock up on household supplies or food. We wait together until the distinct sound of the old yellow school bus makes most of the women jump to their feet, grab their large bags of purchased goods and dash to the perceived stopping place of the bus. A seat on the bus is at stake, the only alternative to which is standing and holding on tightly along the very rocky dirt road for 2 hours. From my point of view, a seat is preferable but still ends in tailbone soreness. Joel, however, cannot even fit his long legs between the seats. We must wait for the squeeling tied-up pigs to be thrown on the roof and bags and boxes secured. Then begins the journey as we move slowly along the rocky road, up and down hills, stressing the engine and challenging my faith in its strength with each uphill struggle. By 4:30pm we arrive in the little town of El Espino, which is more developed considering it has electricity. From there it is a pleasant thirty minute walk to El Jocote, partially uphill and with a few near slips on loose rocks. There's nearly nothing along the way except a few horses or dogs until we come upon our new part time home of El Jocote. Juan Jose's finca (farm) is the first marker on the left, a tiny cemetery on the right, and soon you can see dozens of homes scattered up the hillsides. At this point, we are relieved to be walking in a cool temperature but disappointed to feel like we've lost the day to travel. This inaccessibility is in fact a major part of what I believe has made development in the community so difficult, for example it is the reason why the teenagers can only go to high school one day a week, because the nearest one is in Teustepe (remember the once-a-day 2 hour bus inbetween?). We head to a family's house, a new house each week so we can get to know more of the community, and begin a quiet evening. More on what a night and day looks like in El Jocote soon!
After a day or two in the office in Managua, planning projects, doing research, and buying materials, we head out to El Jocote. There's only one bus that will get us down the long dirt road to the neighboring town of El Espino, so we have to make it out there by 1:30pm. We leave the office, on the far east side of Managua and after a quick walk to the Carretera Norte (the highway) we cross six lanes of fast moving traffic - the common blend of cars, trucks, buses, and motorcycles, just imagine every other vehicle with extra people, sitting in the back or hanging out the bus doors. Buses pass frequently, many heading north around the east side of Lake Managua. We take a bus to el departamento (like a state of a country) of Boaco. How do we distinguish the buses? Each is usually marked clearly with its destination, although in smaller lettering than statements such as "El sangre de Dios tiene Poder," and the destination is clarified by the yelling hombres hanging out the bus doors. 25 cordobas ($1) later and we've gotten in the bus, immediately grabbing hold of a bar as the bus jolts forward to keep up with traffic. All seats are full. The aisle is totally full, with two people back to back along the bus. We push through, surely knocking heads with our mochillas (backpacks) and sombreros (Joel has a really big hat, which la gente - the people - like to identify him with). We brace ourselves for the ride, as the bus jolts to a stop and picks up speed again quickly after each parada. Sweat dripping everywhere, pressed up against seats and people, I can guarantee we are both thinking of one thing: jugo de maracuya (passion fruit juice). You see, there's something amazing about a cold beverage when you're so very hot and we've found a little place in Teusptepe that has fresh fruit juices, ice cold. It's a required stop where we catch the next bus to El Espino and now we greatly look forward to it. Once we arrive in Teusptepe, we see a lot of familiar faces waiting for the bus too. Quite a few people from El Jocote travel to Boaco or Managua each week for doctors appointments and to stock up on household supplies or food. We wait together until the distinct sound of the old yellow school bus makes most of the women jump to their feet, grab their large bags of purchased goods and dash to the perceived stopping place of the bus. A seat on the bus is at stake, the only alternative to which is standing and holding on tightly along the very rocky dirt road for 2 hours. From my point of view, a seat is preferable but still ends in tailbone soreness. Joel, however, cannot even fit his long legs between the seats. We must wait for the squeeling tied-up pigs to be thrown on the roof and bags and boxes secured. Then begins the journey as we move slowly along the rocky road, up and down hills, stressing the engine and challenging my faith in its strength with each uphill struggle. By 4:30pm we arrive in the little town of El Espino, which is more developed considering it has electricity. From there it is a pleasant thirty minute walk to El Jocote, partially uphill and with a few near slips on loose rocks. There's nearly nothing along the way except a few horses or dogs until we come upon our new part time home of El Jocote. Juan Jose's finca (farm) is the first marker on the left, a tiny cemetery on the right, and soon you can see dozens of homes scattered up the hillsides. At this point, we are relieved to be walking in a cool temperature but disappointed to feel like we've lost the day to travel. This inaccessibility is in fact a major part of what I believe has made development in the community so difficult, for example it is the reason why the teenagers can only go to high school one day a week, because the nearest one is in Teustepe (remember the once-a-day 2 hour bus inbetween?). We head to a family's house, a new house each week so we can get to know more of the community, and begin a quiet evening. More on what a night and day looks like in El Jocote soon!
RSS Feed
